29 February 2016

DUM PHUKT – AWADHI MASTERY


Food  possesses the most noteworthy position in many societies and religions. A most exceptional illustration of mysticism showed in a physical structure. The confirmation of the bounties of God and human inspiration for existence.



It was 137 years ago that the last of the kings of Awadh walked on the land of their beloved Lucknow . While these monarchs sat on the throne of Awadh, there was nothing that they left untouched, thankfully, for their touch was like the proverbial magic wand. It could raise the most mundane of activities into the realm of art and to unattainable heights of excellence. Little wonder that even bawarchis became master creator of culinary delights . Powerful courts all over India vied with each other to wean away a cook who had either worked or was trained in Lucknow. To belong to Lucknow was the highest qualification a cook could hold. The ruler of Awadh engaged in peaceful pursuits since the battle of Buxar, and laid the foundation of a culture which dazzled the world. Under their patronage developed a cuisine which did not remain the prerogative of royalty alone. Recipes traveled from the royal kitchens of the nobles and from there, to the kitchens of ordinary people.All the while, research and innovation proceeded unabated in the bawarchi khanas of the royalty and aristocracy where money was no constraint, neither was time. In the mid 18th century, in the personal bawarchi khana of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula, Rs. 60,000 was spent per month or Rs. 7.2 lakhs.

Dum phukt or slow oven cooking is a cooking technique associated with the Awadh region of India, in which meat and vegetables are cooked over a very low flame, generally in sealed containers. The technique may be based on earlier Persian cooking methods introduced to India, but tradition assigns its origin in India to the reign of Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daulah (1748–97). Historically Awadhi, it is now also commonly used in other cuisines like Mughlai, Hyderabadi and Punjabi Recipes.


In 1783, Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah re-introduced Dum cooking during the construction of Bara Imam Bara Mosque. For construction workers, food was par-cooked in large clay Handis. The mouth of the Handi was covered with clay saucer and sealed with a paste of flour to prevent the steam from escaping.

At present, Dum cooking is in vogue. High priced restaurants offer Dum cooked food in Handi for parties. Large manufacturers in India are introducing Handi style cookware and food service ware.
This is a slow-cooking method dating back to early sixteenth century Dum cooking was introduced to India by Mughal. Handi is the cookware used for Dum cooking. Dumpukht is derived from Persian meaning 'air-cooked' or 'baked'. The earliest documented recipe can be found in Ain-I-Akbar
Par-cooked food is kept in Handi with minimal amount of water. The lid is placed and sealed with a paste of flour and water. The flames are put out, leaving a bed of hot coals. The heat creates the steam, the steam condenses and rolls down the curved walls. In other words, the steam is choked before it can escape, leading to the term 'Dum Pukht'.



For some of the dishes, the coals may also be placed on the lid to distribute heat evenly.
Dum intends to 'take in' and pukht to 'cook'. Dum pukht cooking utilizes a round, overwhelming bottomed pot, a handi, in which sustenance is firmly fixed and cooked over a moderate flame. There are two principle angles to this style of cooking; bhunao and dum, or "broiling" and "developing" of a readied dish. In this style of cooking, herbs and flavors assume an imperative part. The procedure of moderate broiling delicately convinces each to discharge most extreme flavor. The fixing of the cover of the handi with mixture accomplishes developing. Cooking gradually in its squeezes, the sustenance holds all its common fragrances and gets to be pervaded with the lavishness of flavors that recognizes the dish.

At times, cooking mixture is spread over the compartment, similar to a cover, to seal the sustenance. This is known as purdah (cloak), however on cooking turns into a bread which has retained the kinds of the nourishment and the two are best eaten together. At last, dum pukht sustenance is about smell, when the seal is broken on the table and the aroma of an Awadhi repast coasts noticeable all around.

Some of the most relished dishes cooked with the help of this method and served in almost all the top restaurant and hotel brands of India are:

  • Kachche Gosht ki Biryani -  raw meat is stir fried with spices(masalas) for couple of minutes and then covered with rice and put in the Dum Phukt (slow oven).

Kachche Gosht ki Biryani


  • Hyderabadi Zafrani Biryani -  Saffron is soaked and mixed with the rice at the time it is put in the Dum Pukht.
Hyderabadi Zafrani Biryani

  • Keema ki khichidi- Keema is marinated in yogurt, green chilli paste, spices for a couple of hours and cooked. Then cooked on slow flames with layers of rice and keema mixture alternating.

Keema ki khichidi


  • Kalyani Biryani- Beef is used in preparing the Kalyani biryani. This meal was started after Kalyani Nawabs of Bidar came to Hyderabad sometime in the 18th century. The Kalyani biryani is made with small cubes of beef, regular spices, onions and lots of tomatoes. It has a distinct tomato, jeera, dhania flavour
Kalyani Biryani


  • Dum phukt Biryani
 
Dum phukt Biryani
  • Gobi Musallam
 
Gobi Musallam

 ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
 
 

The author Anurag Sengupta is a first year B.Sc. student in hospitality management from Institute Of Hotel Management, New Delhi, Pusa. In his free time he likes reading books and going through blogs. He is a blogger himself and a freelance photographer and a guitarist.

 

Also read: 

Village India - A New Concept in Tourism



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